Raise car on jack-stands and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
remove front right Tire (5 lug nuts 21mm) and splash guards (many X 10mm, depending on how lazy you where putting the splash guards back on since your last oil change :P)
drain oil.
While the oil is draining:
take out intake up to upper intake manifold (loosen the screw and slide out) which include the air box and the snorkel (don’t worry about the resonator)
remove the starter motor (2 bolts 14mm and 17mm, it also has a 12V line direct from the battery (scared the crap out of my girlfriend because we forgot to unplug the battery and it sparked) that needs to be unscrewed and a plug)
Remove the belt tensioner (3x12mm) I found it easier to just completely unwind the tensioner and push it up (as it will free fall down in your way) to get at the lower 2 bolts. Remove the belt while you’re at it.
To give your self a lot more working room for the Alternator, remove the AC compressor bolts. (4x 14mm), tie a rope around the compressor and just move it out of the way (try not to have the weight leaning on the AC tubes and wiring harness, hence the rope), you might be able to get the alternator off without this step, but I felt it was quicker just removing the AC compressor.
Behind the Alternator (bottom left hand corner if looked at from the front of the engine which is the side with the timing chain) is a through bolt that screws through the timing chain cover into an L shaped piece of steal with a bolt wielded on, we need to remove this bolt (12mm) and slide it out. Then you can get a screwdriver and leaver the Alternator up so that it pivots on the bolt just above the Alternator pulley.
unbolt the steering pumps through bolt. (12 mm) To get to the bolt head (which is behind the pump) I have to go behind the wishbone to get good access, the only way to tell if you have the right bolt is to imagine the most difficult place to get access to your engine. that’s exactly where the bolt is, up the top right hand corner, you can also tell you have the right bolt as its got a longer than normal head. (About twice a long as a regular bolts head).
Take out the bolts (2x10mm) holding down the electrical loom bracket(firewall side) and move the wires and loom out of the way. Screw the bolts back in so you don’t loose them.
Remove the camshaft position sensor (1x10mm) and move it out of the way gently (I’m not sure if it’s a fragile piece of equipment, but it’s a sensor so better safe then sorry). Screw the bolt back into the Timing chain cover so you don’t loose it.
At this stage your engine should have drained all its oil for about 2-4 hours (depending on how many problems you have run into so far.) Move the oil bucket out of the way and screw in the oil drain plug back into the oil pan.
Unbolt the oil pan bolts all around the edge of the pan while supporting it with your other hand. Remove the oil pan (you may need to pry it off with a screw driver as the sealant acts like a glue as well). There will be oil at the bottom of the pan so try not to spill any when you pull it off.
If you look into the engine block from where the oil pan used to be. You will see 2 bolts that bolt into the Timing chain cover. Remove the tall and short bolts (12mm) this step is not mentioned in any manual that I have seen.
just below the crankshaft sensor there is a lip that juts out on the bottom of the engine block. Use a jack against this lip to jack up the engine just enough to get the mount through bolts out.
On the firewall side of the engine mount hold the nut steady with a 12mm (or 14, I forget) spanner and use the breaker bar and a socket to unscrew the bolt from the radiator side. After a couple of rotations the nut should just spin off. To get the through bolt out you may need to tap it with a hammer, if this doesn’t work try raising or lowering the car engine block a little with the jack.
Using the breaker bar and a 14mm socket undo the bolts that hold down the piece of black pressed metal from the engine mount and the TC cover. You can then attack the 1 bolt and 2 nuts (1 nut on the bolt that’s pointing up, one that’s pointing down) holding the engine mount halves together. On the nut that’s pointing down I needed an angled ring spanner to get the proper leverage at the right angle. After this the top half of the engine mount should just slide off, taking the rubber mounting ring with it.
The bottom half of the engine mount has 2 bolts and one nut, the nut is tucked away underneath. Unscrew the 2 bolts until they just slide around (don’t bother trying to remove them individually) then undo the nut and remove the nut, I had to slide the bottom half of the engine mount as one piece all together to get it off because the actual bolts won’t slide out without moving the whole mount up about 1-2cm. Bolt the engine mount up as a separate piece so you don’t loose the place of any nuts and bolts.
You will need to also remove the power steering fluid line that runs down to the pump, so empty the power steering fluid anyway you see fit, (i just put a towel around one of the hoses and pulled the hose off and caught what i could in a coke bottle.) detach the line that connects to the reservoir and points into your firewall and move it out of the way (in between the firewall and the Intake manifold). mine was quite difficult so i used some RP7
removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt (19mm)Insert a big chunk of hardened steel into the flywheel, I tried 2 screwdrivers and a file, all of which bent to the point where I was worried the steel would break and fall in, in the end I used a pry bar and angled it so that the teeth pushed the pry bar into the bell house casing.
Use breaker bar and possible extension to torque that mother fucking crankshaft pulley bolt off. i managed to break a $10 breaker bar doing this so don't expect it to come off easy. i used some 1m pipe that i picked up from the hardware store and a $40 breaker bar (obviously so it wouldn't break again) i let it soak in rp7 for a couple of days and beat the crap out of it with a hammer (originally used a piece of wood in between the bolt and the hammer, but i gave up and got frustrated and started belting it with direct contact (not sure if that helped or anything) and forced the breaker bar in through the top of the engine bay (it will push against the wheel well wall, the new breaker bar needed to be forced on and it eventually went on as it needs to go back ~100deg) After shoving and pushing and swearing it started feeling like i was bending my new $40 breaker bar but the bolt was actually coming off. it didn't “break” like i was expecting but just sort of slowly gave way.
after the bolt is removed i could just slide the pulley off using 2 screwdrivers.
undo all the bolts on the timing chain cover (20? X 10mm), count them, as you will miss one or 2 (there is one hidden under the engine mount extruding bolt, mine was covered in grit and i missed it completely) lever the cover off with a screwdriver or pry bar. it should slowly peal off without too much trouble, i got right in where the Alternator bolts through the timing chain. if it feels like it wants to push back into its original position you have probably missed something. count your bolts and remember the two that are found inside the sump.
